encens : the shape of raf simons

應是二月份的事。買了一段時間，待今天才真正的看清楚。

記錄的不只是raf simons, 還有如dries van noten, agnes b, rei, yohji, mmm, westwood, lagerfild等。刋登的不是本季最前線的服裝，反之，很多都似是80年代的款式。但卻很好看。較下週的Milk East Touch更好看，較下季的style.comm更好看。

好看的不是因為流行元素，不是把最新的圖案，工藝，布料，造形，設計集於一身。好看是因為不是那種當下世界的fashion。好看是因為不會在大都會見得到。好看是不需明星名模來展示。好看是原來他們是這樣看衣服，不如為設計而設計。



"I wanted to return to basic shapes, almost primitive. I needed more clarity, more prominence. The men's collection was already meant to be a wardrobe of classics cleansed from anything superflous, but during its conception, I couldn't stop asking myself if I wasn't designing clothes that were too simplistic, if it was worth organising a show just to exhibit a pair of well cut trousers, a jacket proportioned to the very millimetre, or a simple white shirt. When I saw the results, I realized that now was the right time to continue with this direction. I am in a period where I feel the need for something more clear-cut, less glittery. I have never purified my vocabulary so much. It had been a long time since I last dared to show a woman on a catwalk, wearing nothing more than a black linen pullover and a pair of white trousers."
DRIS VAN NOTEN

"I wanted an alternative. Starting from the observation that certain types of clothing exist - such as work clothes - with no other purpose than to be convenient and comfortable to wear. I said to myself 'these clothes weren't made in a day, over time many anonymous people have made necessary adjustments : why shouldn't I try to improve them as well?' I took everything that I love, white shirts, t-shirts, jackets, trench coats, and I tried to imperceptibly revitalise their proportions. It was totally anti-fashion, to such an extent that we would see women enter the shop wearing parrot coloured trousers and a red scarf, but who would leave wearing grey, a beige scarf and a denim blue waiter's jacket, as if they had been cleansed of all the Diktats in vogue!"
AGNES B